We grab our board, find the spot, paddle to the line up, sit on the board, we wait... The first wave comes, we get our position and here we go! A dance between us and the wave starts, where the wave is definitely the one leading.
Different waves may require different approaches, but the same kind of wave can be danced in different ways too: some surfers like to rock-n-roll with a thruster, others prefer a tango with a twin fin, or even a waltz with a single fin.
So how are we going to dance that damn beautiful wave?
Like in other activities, when we surf for a long time, through countless repetitions we unblock hundreds of technical nuances, which brings us to the state of freedom and gives the room for expression.
In this state, we don't need to think how and why we dance, because the answer is inside us. The voice commands our feet, steps, and turns. This voice is ourselves. And when we manage to hear that voice in whatever we do, in the state of flow, it becomes a self expression.
Self expression is the dance of our own existence. It may look weird and eccentric to some, and inspiring to others. It brings us a feeling of fulfillment, and it brings diversity and freshness into the world.
So when your wave comes, dance with her in your own way, until the melody ends. And then, don´t forget to thank her, because well, not everyone gets a chance to dance with mother nature.
Johny Vieira